This trip began back in 2018 when I started a webinar training program with Wilderness Safaris.  At the time, I registered because I have always been interested in Africa and saw this as an opportunity to learn a little more about the countries that Wilderness Safaris operates.  Their mix of safari camps, sustainability and community projects offers a traveller so many insights during a vacation, that it's almost impossible to pin point that "favorite memory"!

I have tried to write this blog at least a dozen times since my return, but each attempt developed into a mini-novel as I experienced so much on this 2 Country, 4 Camp, 8 Day trip.  The blog would be skimmed through so I have decided to go with a highlight format to offer you some insight and then the opportunity to contact me for more details on any question that arise.

I hope you enjoy this blog and just a tip...if you have an ounce of adventure in you then we need to start planning your safari camp experience!

St John’s to Livingstone, Zambia does require 2 overnight flights plus some layover time in Canada, Europe and South Africa. So how do you make the travel a little more enjoyable? Take a break and visit a city in Europe such as Frankfurt. On the outbound flight I had a 10 hour layover, so I reached out to Jumeirah Frankfurt (Virtuoso property) and enquired about a tour as well as a day room. I had the opportunity to experience a great hotel in the heart of Frankfurt as well as freshen up for my next overnight flight to Johannesburg.

The return flight started on 03May with the connections being tighter as we departed from Chikwenya airstrip for Harare, Zimbabwe. From Harare it was a quick jump to South African Airlines to Johannesburg for the longest layover of 5 hours before the overnight flight to London Heathrow. The flight to London was full, but smooth so I was able to get some rest. In London, the connection was 2 hours for the flight to Toronto so enough time to make my way from gate to gate. The final leg was Toronto back to St John’s where I arrived home on 04May.

In the end, my 8 days in Zambia and Zimbabwe required 4 days of travel (2 in each direction) which was partly due to the grounding of the MAX8 aircraft.  You may be thinking, that’s too much flying, but I have to say, it really is worth every second!

 

Our group of 6 met up in Johannesburg and made our last flight into Livingstone, Zambia together. The excitement of beginning this adventure was building as we flew 2 hours north on a clear sunny day that allowed us to view parts of Botswana before getting our first glimpse of the Zambezi River along with Victoria Falls. I was on the wrong side of the plane to view Victoria Falls, but the river was impressive. Unsure of what to expect on arrival in Livingstone, I was quickly blown away by how friendly the people were as well as how clean the town was as we transferred 20 mins from the airport to our first camp, Toka Leya. As we wandered the town one afternoon for a little shopping, we were never approached by people looking for handouts as you experience in European or Caribbean destinations. Being under British rule, driving is on the left so that always takes a little time to get used to and of course seeing wild animals roaming the roads keeps you attentive as you don’t want to miss a moment!

The Highlights:

• Our welcome transfer with meet/greet service by our guide at the Livingstone Airport started the trip with putting our minds at ease. Luggage is handled by the guides/resort staff at all times so you are free to take in all that surrounds you.
• Arriving at the camp was unique as we sailed up the Zambezi River that allowed us to spot our first pod of hippos. It was a refreshing way to wake up after the 2 days of flights.
• Rounding a bend, the camp beach area came into sight with the staff waiting to greet us. Chris, the General Manger, provided us with our welcome briefing that covers all you need to know about the camp along with safety procedures.
• Dining was outstanding and you were never left hungry. Breakfast was a mix of buffett and A la Carte, Lunch had a variety of options including pizza from a wood burning oven, Afternoon Tea had some great treats and Dinner was outstanding with A La Carte service.
• Staff walk you to your tent where your luggage is awaiting you and they go through every aspect so you quickly feel at home.
• Elevated boardwalks so the animals can make their way to/from the river and on our first night we had a hippo resting in a water hole just steps away from the main lounge
• A private talk with a local historian covering the life of Dr. Livingstone
• Located 12kms up river from Victoria Falls or also known as "The Smoke That Thunders"

Animals:

• The camp is located in Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park which is only minutes from Livingstone and approx. 25min drive to the airport
• Animals are free to roam the park
• Sightings included Giraffes, Hippos, Baboons, Monkeys, Rhinos, Antelope, Warthogs, Wildebeast and Crocodiles

Activities:

• Your choice during your stay are Catch & Release fishing**, Sunset Cruises on the Zambezi River, Rhino Walk** with Park Guards that “live” 24/7 with these amazing animals, Game Drives, Cultural Experiences, Spa treatments**, Pool and Victoria Falls visit
• A small fee applies for choices with **
• During our 2 days, we experienced the Sunset Cruise, Game Drive, Rhino Walk and visit to Victoria Falls 

Overall: This was an ideal camp to begin our adventure as our tents had some comforts of home such as electrical service, wifi and air conditioning. The was 24/7 security wandering the grounds which offered that extra peace of mind as we adjusted to the Safari Camp way of life. Being in such proximity of Victoria Falls, you can fulfill your need for adventure with bungee jumping, ziplining, white water rafting or even Devils Pool before heading out for your next Safari Camp.

This morning (27Apr19) was the start of our next adventure as we transferred from Toka Leya to Little Makalolo Camp located in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe. The best way to reach Hwange National Park is by air so we had to make our way over to Zimbabwe by crossing the Victoria Falls Bridge before entering the border crossing area. Our guide from Toka Leya handled the Zambia boarder custom office and then handed us off to our next Wilderness Safari guide who assisted with the Zimbabwe border custom office as well as transferring our bags between vehicles. The entire process took less than 10 mins and was stress free thanks to our guides being by our sides. Our drive to the Victoria Falls Airport took us through the town of Victoria Falls and once again, the cleanliness of the town was impressive. On arrival at the Victoria Falls Airport, we were met by the Wilderness Air staff and can you guess it….our bags were looked after instantly along with our checkin. We just had to follow the staff through the airport, a quick security check point and then right out to our awaiting aircraft.

Wilderness Air has been operating since 1991 and has a fleet of 34 aircraft that range from Cessna 206 up to a Cessna Grand Caravan 208B. This is where you realize why Wilderness Safaris have a tight restriction on the size of your bags…there is not a lot of room under the aircraft for luggage! If you enjoy flying, then this is a great opportunity to see Africa from 5000 to 10000 feet above. If you are a little nervous about flying, I have to say once you are settled in, the flights with Wilderness Air were some of the smoothest I have ever experienced. You can even sit in the co-pilot’s seat which allows a unique perspective on take off/landing as well as being able to ask the pilot questions once into the flight.

Our total flying time was just over 45 mins to the Linkwasha Airstrip and the two highlights were:

• seeing The Smoke That Thunders (Victoria Falls) fading into the distance just after take off
• the fly over of the Linkwasha Airstrip as I was about to experience my first dirt/grass airstrip landing and the African bush

The Highlights:

• One of 4 camps located in the private concession covering 130,000 acres of Hwange National Park
• Transfer time from Linkwasha Airstrip is approx 25 mins and great opportunity to see some of the 45,000 elephants that call Zimbabwe “home”
• Upon arrival, there is a great welcome from the staff that makes you feel as if you have returned home
• My first thought, wow we really are out in the bush now as this camp is built right on the ground, there are no elevated boardwalks as in Toka Leya
• The first view from the main lounge area overlooks a savannah with the “famous” watering hole and hide
• During our welcome briefing in the lounge area, giraffe and wildebeest were our first sightings just a few hundred yards away
• To one side of the main area, there is an elevated deck area that serves breakfast/lunch while offering a great views of the watering hole
• You will also find a pool up here so while cooling off in the afternoons, you won’t miss any of the animals in the area
• The tents again, spread out on both sides of the main area and were very comfortable yet offered a “rustic” feel
• The camp runs on generators so there is power in the tents, but air conditioning and Wifi are not offered
• All tents view the savannah or watering hole and I was fortunate enough to have Tent #1 which offered a direct view of the hide/watering hole (even from the washroom)
• From the camp, you have the opportunity to experience a Star Bed and I highly recommend it as a “must do/WOW” experience
• The Star Bed is a raised platform where you enjoy the night sky and animals in their elements.
• The staff has the all the comforts of “home” ready for your arrival with drinks and bedding
• Your guide spends the night with you, but camped out in a tent approx 500 feet away in case you need him for any reason
• The staff at the resort were excellent and within the 2 nights of our stay, we learnt so much about them and their passion for what they do
• Meeting Arnold Tshipa, enjoying dinner at the camp as we learnt about his work with elephant conservation. There is even an opportunity to travel with him while collaring elephants
• Visiting the Scorpions Anti-Poaching Unit and let’s just say a real eye opener to what this group does on a daily basis
• Afternoon lunch out on the plains with just nature around us….quite the surprise to see the entire staff had set this up while we were out on a game drive
• Game drives are plentiful here from the plants to the birds and of course the big animals that we all hear so much about
• The Watering Hole/Hide….it’s the highlight and when the elephants arrive, let’s just say our guides get you to the hide in minutes so you are only feet away from these gentle giants

Animals: Giraffes, Hippos, Baboons, Monkeys, Elephants, Leopard, Cheetah, Hyenas, Jackals, Owls, Zebras, Secretary Birds, Ostrich, Rhinos, Antelope, Warthogs, Wildebeest, Impala, Kudu, Steenbok, Waterbuck, Sable

Activities:

• Hide (Watering Hole), Pool, Game Drives, Night Game Drives, Star Bed/Sleep Out, Culture Experiences, Guided Walks
• During the 2 night stay I participated in 3 game drives, the Watering Hole/Hide, the Star Bed, visit to the Anti-Poaching Unit and meeting with Arnold Tshipa

The Hide at Little Mak

The Starbed at Little Mak

Game Drive Scenery and Scorpions Anti-Poaching Visit

Overall: It’s surprising how 48 hours can allow you to experience so much. The Watering Hole/Hide was amazing being so close to the elephants. Then the Star Bed experience was a bucket list item checked off…the Milky Way was so clear! The staff truly shone at this resort and I can not say enough about Paul, Charles, Valentine and the others. Learning about the plants/trees during our game drives really brought the “circle of life” into a complete understanding of how nature works together. Exceptional experience all the way around, you don’t want to miss spending a few days at this camp!

• This morning it was goodbye to Little Mak and hello to Linkwasha Camp which is located within the Hwange National Park
• Our guide Paul was taking us out on our last game drive from Little Mak enroute to Linkwasha and we were searching for the lions
• We had approx 90minute window to search for the lions before stopping in at Davidson Camp where we would get a tour of the camp
• The lions were proving very difficult to spot even though Paul knew the area, the landscape just wouldn’t give up their location
• We did get some great views of zebras and some birds while we searched
• Enroute to Davidson Camp, there was also a little surprise encounter with a herd of elephants at a mud hole that was fun to watch the interaction
• On arrival at Davidson Camp, we met Paul’s sister who works on property so Wilderness Safaris is about family
• After the tour of Davidson, it was off to Linkwasha Camp where we said goodbye to Paul and get settled in for the next 2 nights

The Highlights:

• On arrival at the camp, I was quickly realizing why it was so hard for Alison to share with us her favorite camp…each offers something unique
• As with the other camps, the staff were there with the Wilderness Safari welcome and once again we felt as if we were family
• Awaiting us was a large deck area with multiple levels hosting a lounge tent, dining tent, library tent, dining areas and pool area with day beds
• All views from this area were over the savannah with a watering hole and hide (unfortunately we did not make it out to the hide)
• In the distance there were hundreds of water buffalo enjoying the morning sun
• One of the added comforts, the camp is connected to power so each tent offers air conditioning
• After our welcome briefing with Joe (camp manager and exceptional photographer), it was lunch on the deck before heading to our tents
• The tents…oh let’s just say it felt like walking into a 5 star hotel and once again, I was in Tent 1 so it was just me and nature at the end of the boardwalk
• The view from my tent and small deck area was onto a bush covered savannah that allowed me to watch an elephant explore the area for about 15mins on the second day

Our First Game Drive:

• We met our guide, Eustace, for our afternoon game drive and we once again hit the “guide jackpot” as Eustace was all around amazing
• Our first drive started with the Water Buffalo and Wildebeast where with a few photo tips from Eustace, my “skills” were getting better
• Our luck with the animals also continued as we located lions enjoying a meal and in my mind, it was not what I was looking forward to seeing, but again with the insight of Eustace, there was a complete process that is followed
• Every animal serves a purpose when it comes to a kill/meal, the scene is not gruesome as we see on TV and within 24 hours the area is virtually cleaned with no waste
• Shortly after leaving the lions, we crossed paths with the Cheetah and her cub from our Little Mak drive who also had found another meal…jackals were in the area as well, but no Leopard this time
• As the sun was setting, we headed back to camp for dinner and the colors of the sunset/night sky were amazing

Our Second Game Drive and Village Visit:

• Next morning as we headed for breakfast, it was pointed out in the distance that a pride of lions and their cubs were “playing” so let’s say it was a quick breakfast as we all wanted to get out there
• As we approached the area, 2 lionesses “greeted” us as they kept watch over the area and their cubs
• The cubs were about a year old and I have to say they were so playful with one another as they would “sneak up” and pounce on each other
• There were a number of baboons in the area overlooking/calling out warnings, but the lion cubs kept to themselves until one baboon was a little too brave and dashed from one palm tree to another
• Well the cubs spotted the baboon and the race was on…the baboon reached the tree with a few seconds to spare and climbed to the top quicker than I had ever seen

• After spending close to an hour with the lions, we headed outside of Hwange National Park to visit Ngamo Village where Wilderness Safaris has built a school for the village children and works with the families in a conservation effort
• The drive, well I thought it would be a highway drive then into the bush for the last bit, but once again I was surprised as we drove a dirt trail through the bush for approx 40mins right to the camp
• The entire time driving to the village, we were chatting with Eustace as we learnt more about his life and as I took a picture of the “road” ahead, I couldn’t help but think how amazing and peaceful this area was
• On arriving at the edge of the camp, we crossed the path of a couple ladies returning with some goods…well let’s just say they had a great laugh when Kelly tried to carry a bag of goods on her head
• The camp…spotless is the first thing that came to mind followed by “this isn’t a village, it’s a town” as each family had a fenced area for their homes, field and animals.
• We spent just over 90mins in the village talking with the chief, his wife and grandkids as well as touring his home, dining, kitchen and family compound….very knowledgeable and interested in learning about our homes
• The ladies of the village had setup a market for us to wander through and there really were some great hand made souvieners, but the hardest part was deciding who to buy from as each of wanted to help all of the ladies
• As we headed back to Hwange, we stopped to meet another group of ladies that were supporting their village by creating hand made baskets from the local grass mixed with plastics that they collected which is why the area was so clean of litter
• These baskets were very colorful and sold at various markets throughout Zimbabwe with the goal to raise enough money to build a hall so the ladies could work on the baskets indoor instead of the shade
• On our drive back to camp, we crossed paths with a few lions that were resting after a meal while one lioness was trying to keep the vultures at bay
• We also spotted a lone elephant at one of the watering holes who preferred we keep going as he gave us a "little show" of his dominance

Our Third Game Drive:

• Our final driver was about the elephants and sable that was until we headed to a watering hole to enjoy our last sundowner with Eustace
• As we arrived to enjoy the sunset, we spotted a hippo and her baby in the water…well let’s just say the baby must have thought he was a dolphin as there were splashes/flips all over…who knew hippos moved this much
• The baby hippo spotted us after a few minutes and made his way towards our end of the watering hole to check us out…he did get a little too close for his mother’s liking who made it known to the baby that was far enough
• Eustace explained that hippos spend all day in the water, but at night come out to graze on the grass all night so as the sunset, the mother hippo was looking to exit the water, but with us around she was hesitant
• To avoid any undue stress to the hippos, Eustace recommended we hop back into the vehicle to finish our drinks which allowed the hippos to exit the water on their terms

The "WOW" moment:

• One of the things I was always reminded of was that the animals are free to roam as they see fit which led to one of the top highlights of this experience….dinner on our last night at Linkwasha
• As we gathered on the deck for our final dinner with the Linkwasha camp, 10 elephants strolled through the camp by the boardwalk to the tents
• It was spectacular to sit in silence watching these peaceful animals for at least 15 mins as they snacked on a few trees before heading out into the Savannah with the sun setting
• Dinner was just started, conversations were great and then one of the waiters asked us to remain silent….why you may ask? Well 3 of the elephants decided to return to the camp for a drink from the swimming pool
• Yes…we were within 10 feet of the elephants as they quenched their thirst and even though it was quite dark, you could see the outlines of the 3 elephants and hear them enjoying their “beverage” (sorry the pictures are not the best, but look close)

Activities:  Pool, Hide, Starbed Experience, Game Drives, Night Drives, Cultural Experiences, Guide Walks

Overall:  With this camp, the stand outs were the staff, Eustace and the village visit combined with tents that had you living the good life.  The variety of animals experienced within 48 hours was outstanding and combined with the photography skills of the camp staff, you will walk away with unlimited memories.  I highly recommend at least a 2 night stay, but if you can swing 3-4 nights, you should have enough time to take everything thing including a night at the starbed!

 

 

• This morning was another great breakfast, followed by thanks and hugs to the staff at Linkwasha as we were on the move to our final camp
• As we headed to the Linkwasha airstrip with Eustace, we spotted a hippo grazing just outside the camp area and were then met by a herd of water buffalo
• The drive to the airstrip took us past a few of the areas we had been exploring over the past 4 days so it allowed us some time to reminisce about all we had seen
• You never know what can occur when you head to the airport and of course this morning had a lone male elephant blocking the road
• He seemed so out of place when you consider all the open land he had to choose from, yet he decided on the middle of the road
• After about 5 minutes, he moved to the side and we continued onto the airstrip

• At the airstrip, we were expecting our Cessna Grand Caravan to be waiting, but this time there were 2 Cessna 206s with the pilots welcoming us (the adventure continues)
• If we were not a close group of travellers by now, this flight was going to make us closer as each plane only holds 4-5 people
• The pilots and Eustace quickly transferred our luggage to the aircrafts and after our final goodbyes with Eustace we were sitting in the planes awaiting take off
• The flight was going to be just under 2 hours and required a fuel stop in Kariba which was just over the half way point to Chikwenya
• I was looking forward to the flight (even with the small space) to get another aerial view of the country and I was not disappointed
• Kariba is located on Lake Kariba which offered some amazing views as we crossed over this large lake and made our fuel stop
• We were back in the air within 20mins and on our way to the airstrip for Chikwenya Camp, located in Mana Pools National Park
• On our final approach, we were met with views of the Zambezi river with dozens of islands and mountains in the distance
• We circled directly over the camp which faces the river and banked for our final approach which was another smooth landing
• Our guide quickly greeted us, transferred our luggage and we were off to the camp, just 6 minutes away from the strip

• This was our final camp for the trip and let’s just say there were still some wow moments coming
• On our drive from the airstrip, we learnt the camp was recently rebuilt and is only open a few months of the year as the rains can be heavy here due to the mountains which makes the trails impassable
• We were not disappointed as Abee (our guide) pulled our vehicle (brand new by the way) into the camp where once again, the staff were waiting to welcome us
• The views of the Zambezi as we rounded the corner of the main dining area were spectacular, again this camp has a unique feel from the others which makes it difficult to pick a favorite
• Our welcome briefing was the first priority again and then it was time for lunch out under the trees where we could enjoy the views
• Looking around the main area, to the left there was a firepit, beside our dining table there were swinging chairs hanging from the tree branches, the pool with a number of lounge chairs just to the right looked inviting, the main dining tent was behind us and a hundred yards away to the right was the lounge/bar/high tea area and just behind you could see the boardwalk leading to the tents.
• During our lunch we discussed our “plan of attack” as to which activities we wanted to cover in the next 48 hours as there is a variety
• The camp offers a real mix of local authenticity and a high level of comfort that was a great way to finish off the trip
• As we were escorted to our tents to freshen up, there was some anticipation building as we had heard how spectacular the tents were at this camp….we were not disappointed
• The bedding, seating areas, large deck, soaker bathtub and shower area all offered 180 degree views of the Zambezi river, mountains and animal spotting (hippos/elephants were the top)
• There is even a family tent that offers a huge deck area with a small plunge pool so travelling with your children is so easy here

Sunset Cruise on the Zambezi

• After we freshened up and settled into our tents, it was time to start the activities which began with meeting for High Tea (yep more food) before heading off for a sunset cruise on the Zambezi
• Abee, like the other guides we had met, was exceptional as he quickly transferred us to the “dock” where our boat was waiting and of course loaded with snacks/refreshments
• It was great to get back on the water and relax for the next couple of hours after the day of flying, but at the same time, there were animals all around to enjoy
• Hippos are the main focus of this camp and within minutes of leaving the dock, we spotted our first pod of many…the “challenge” was on to get a photo of a hippo with its mouth wide open!
• On the numerous islands dotted in the river, there was a variety of animals/birds and with some luck we would catch the elephants crossing the river to/from the islands
• There were a lot of laughs on the cruise as we chatted about our experiences to date, enjoyed some snacks/refreshments and watched a spectacular sunset over the river

• As we returned to camp, dinner was waiting for us where we met Peter Blinston, Executive Director at Painted Dogs Conservation and learnt a lot about one of the most endangered animals in Africa
• Peter mentioned how tough it was to spot the pack in the area and did not succeed on his two attempts earlier in the day, but was going to do all he could tomorrow so we may have the opportunity to see the dogs
• After dinner, we moved to the firepit for a little more conversation with the camp staff before heading back to the tents for the night
• Throughout the night, the hippos were very vocal calling out to each other, almost sounded like a rough laugh which was the first time I had ever heard hippos make any kind of noise 

Walking Safari Experience

• This morning we met up with Abee after breakfast and prepared for our walking safari with a briefing of how we would be moving safely as a group while learning about the area
• There was a little anticipation as we headed off the camp grounds towards the river bed (dried up) leading to the Zambezi, but at our first stop, I quickly relaxed as I knew Abee had has well looked after
• Listening to Abee throughout the walk, I gained a greater understanding of the “circle of life” and how everything is connected from the smallest plant/animal to the largest
• Each piece of nature had a roll to play in assisting another piece and even a dry river bed could produce clean water for a number of animals with just a little effort from the elephants
• As we entered the tree line, Abee explained how to approach in a safe manner, listen for the various animals and follow the winds so we stayed down wind as much as possible
• The walk lasted for about 90mins and even though we did not spot many animals, walking the land really offered a unique way to experience a safari
• We finished up back on the river bed where “surprise”, the camp staff had setup a snack/beverage area for us to enjoy before hopping back in a jeep for the drive to camp

Evening Game Drive and The Painted Dogs

• After a little rest at camp and high tea, we were heading out for our first game drive and hoping to spot the Painted Dogs
• The landscape was so different than Hwange National Park with thicker vegetation, yet animal spotting was still great
• Baboons seem to thrive in the area which were very entertaining watching them play
• The Painted Dogs were proving tough and Peter had been on the radio advising he was not successful in his search
• As we rounded a corner, “Eagle Eye” Kelly thought she spotted an animal under some bushes in the distance so Abee headed that way
• The pack of Painted Dogs (5 total) were just waking up from an afternoon siesta….we radioed Peter who was as excited as us and was on his way
• Over the next 40 minutes we followed the pack as they headed to the river for a drink and then in search of a meal
• Peter informed us that this is the only area where the dogs will hunt baboons and since the area is full of baboons it didn’t take long for the pack to focus in on a few
• Four large male baboons challenged the pack which quickly discouraged the dogs to look in another direction that our vehicle could not follow

• The sun was starting to set by this point so we began back for camp, but once again, the staff had a sundowner experience awaiting us on the river banks
• There was a lot of chatter about our Painted Dogs encounter, how our animal spotting luck had continued and a final cheers to the group as the sunset was outstanding

Our Final Game Drive

• Our group had a choice this morning, head out on a game drive at 6am and then transfer to the airstrip for our flight of many to home or sleep in for an extra hour and skip the game drive
• I opted for the drive as I didn’t want to miss any opportunity and I was joined by 2 others in our group so off we went with Abee
• The drive was a chance to just soak in the area/experience and leave the camera down, but it’s hard to not take a few pictures as we spotted a few animals
• No luck on the Painted Dogs this morning as we searched the area one last time before heading towards the airstrip